Vacation Log Part 4: Amsterdam

…the Netherlands, and Amsterdam!

Day 10 (part 2): Berlin to Amsterdam

No private cabin this time, but that was fine; we still had booked first class seats, so were in the first class car. One of the things I discovered on the Frankfurt to Berlin ride was that no matter how pretty the view is, it’s extremely difficult to take decent pictures while traveling at 150 MPH, so I left the camera packed and just alternated between watching Germany go by out the windows and watching Max Headroom episodes on my iPad.

A train monitor display showing a map of our route from Berlin to Amsterdam and the stops along the way.
Our first in-Europe country hop!

The train to Amsterdam was about six hours, and then we figured out the local tram system to get to our hotel. Turned out to be nice and easy: one tram line for about 30 minutes, then a short walk along a pretty little canal before heading about a block into a residential/commercial neighborhood to get to the hotel.

To the right of the photo, a paved path leads by some small apartment buildings. To the left of the path is a grassy green area with pretty trees, and to the left of that is the blue water of a small canal, with small personal boats tied up along the banks.
If you’re going to have a bit of a walk to get to your hotel, you could do far worse than this.

Got ourselves settled in, walked a couple blocks away for a really good dinner at a neighborhood Middle Eastern place (Turkish pizza, which though called pizza, is closer to a burrito in form, is really good), stopped by a grocery for breakfast supplies, and now are getting ready for bed, as we have an early morning planned for tomorrow.

GPS track log map of us walking from our Berlin hotel to the tram stop, then taking that to the train station.
Walking to the local tram stop, then taking that to the Berlin Hauptbahnhof.
GOS track log map of our journey from Berlin to Amsterdam.
Berlin to Amsterdam!
GPS track log map of our route from the Amsterdam train station to our hotel.
Tram from the train station, and then a short walk to the hotel.

Day 11: Amsterdam

A day of museums and wandering around the central part of the city.

We started the day with the Rijksmuseum (Dutch masters, Rembrandt, etc.), had a great lunch at a nearby café, and then went to the Van Gogh Museum (all about the VW microbus and where it’s been…wait, no, that’s not right). After that we took a tram a few stops towards the city center until the main canals started, when we got off and walked the rest of the way in so we could walk over each of the canals. Then we spent the next couple of hours just randomly wandering our way through central Amsterdam, seeing what we could find.

Very wide painting of a group of men in fancy 1600’s military dress.
My only iPhone shot of the day from the Rijksmuseum, to take advantage of the wide lens. Militia Company of District VIII in Amsterdam under the Command of Captain Roelof Bicker by Bartholomeus van der Helst, c. 1643.

Amsterdam is a gorgeous city, and for all I’d read and understood on a theoretical level that bikes are a big thing here, I didn’t really get it until today. It’s incredible to walk around a city like this, where bikes, walking, and the transit system (trams and buses) are by far the preferred ways to get around, and cars are drastically deprioritized. You’ll see streets as wide as a three- or four-lane road in the U.S., but there’s just one car lane each direction, and all the rest is pedestrian, bike, or tram lanes. Bikes are everywhere at all times; the morning and afternoon commute look like you’re on the sidelines of the Tour de France, only instead of athletes on speed bikes, it’s everyday folks on regular bikes, from modern e-bikes to old style Schwinns (or the European equivalent) to various forms of cargo bikes. It’s really incredible, and I wish the U.S. would get on board with this kind of thinking and city planning (or re-planning) – this article on how Amsterdam became a bike city is worth a read.

A bicycle with a smaller front wheel and an extended front section covered to form a small enclosure for a child to ride in.
I saw a lot of this style of cargo bike, some kitted out like this as a child carrier, and some with a more utilitarian cargo compartment.

What with not having seen a single SUV or pickup in almost two weeks, convenient and low-stress country hopping on Interrail (formerly Eurail), and experiencing Amsterdam, this summer vacation has been an amusing experience in just how far behind Europe America is when it comes to seriously thinking about transportation as anything other than cars, more cars, bigger cars, and more bigger cars.

Eventually we were running out of steam, so we found a restaurant for dinner and ate while sitting outside and watching people stroll and roll by. Then we hopped on the tram back to the hotel, and called it an end to our day.

GPS track log of our day in Amsterdam, mostly in the city center.
The longer straighter line is the tram from our hotel to the museum plaza, the rest is us wandering wherever our feet took us.

Day 12 (part 1): Amsterdam to…?

And it’s our next travel day!

You know the routine: Get up, have breakfast, pack out, and get to the train station. All of which went as expected, so we’re ion the train, nicely settled in to our first class seats, and off to our next stop!

Panoramic shot of a traditional Dutch windmill rising over trees and green fields.
We did manage to spot a number of traditional Dutch windmills out the window of our train after we got out of Amsterdam and into the countryside. This was the closest we got.

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